* This article first appeared here in YourLuxury Africa
Truth be told, the Vineyard Hotel was always my place to take a breather. Living nearby, whenever I was hankering for a little escape, I’d drive over to switch off and soak up the sanctuary of the Cape Town property. Sure, there’d usually be a buzz of merriment from resident holidaymakers, but with a generous eight acres of garden, I’d always manage to find my space. On a recent trip from London, I took advantage of the hotel’s Take-a-Breather winter deal, ending an action-packed trip around the Cape with two nights of pause, ponder, and play.
The hotel carries a notable history: the Manor House was built in 1800 by Scottish travel writer, artist, and socialite Lady Anne Barnard and her husband, Andrew, the Colonial Secretary of the Cape of Good Hope. Many a high-society event would have been hosted at the prestigious home at the foothills of Table Mountain. Today, the hotel remains stitched into Cape Town life as a desirable meeting space and venue for special events, all thanks to the dedicated efforts of the Petousis family, who’ve been the proud custodians of the hotel for almost five decades.
Driving in, checking in, and walking into the room mark the start of leaving everything behind for a while. The mountain-facing suites are the sweet spot, with the bright interior opening onto a veranda terrace. Sitting here at the table, or reclining on the loungers, the private space is enclosed by hedging and then framed by the spectacle of Table Mountain.
Settled in and sufficiently drunk on the view, I was off to explore the gardens: eight acres of tranquil, manicured greenery. The Liesbeek River bubbles its way through the garden, where a series of paths and benches offer the chance to linger in the lush surroundings, feeling more like a guest of the famous tortoises, energetic squirrels, and bustling birdlife.
Shifting from ponder to play, the hotel’s gym is one of the most impressive I’ve seen in Cape Town, with a wealth of machinery, weights, and cardio options. Workouts are easily combined with a dip in the bracing outdoor pool or the more welcoming indoor heated pool.
Activity ticked off, my friend and I found ourselves in the Angsana Spa’s couples’ room – rather than a dark room, the glass walls reflected the private garden, cotton sheets replaced the usual towels on the bed, and a walk-in shower and jacuzzi bath waited after our Javanese-style massages.
If you’re in true escape mode and don’t want to leave the property, there’s no shortage of tempting dining options. Outside, the Garden Lounge and Patio offers quintessential Vineyard alfresco lunches with mountain views. Meanwhile, The Square serves a casual yet classy à la carte menu and is also where the daily breakfasts are hosted: a buffet featuring every morning option you could ever imagine. The Spanish Benedict, served on a rosti with Romesco sauce, is worth sinking your teeth into and is available from the equally tempting à la carte menu.
The hero dining experience is dinner at Morii – an ode to Italy, but with distinctly South African grounding. Chef Connor McKinnon (ex-La Colombe and Salsify) is the humble and driven culinary force behind Morii, where the tables are spaced around the large home-style kitchen, allowing the scents and sounds of the kitchen to serve as a flavourful soundtrack. Warm terracotta wall elements reference a Mediterranean ethos, with subtle yet striking abstract accents giving a playful panache.
The menu highlight was the winter-warming braised pork shoulder risotto with crispy guanciale, ’nduja and pecorino shavings. An insider’s tip? Their balsamic vinegar is made on site – mention how much you enjoyed it to your waiter and you’ll likely end up with a sample bottle to take home. For frequent visitors, once the current menu ends in August, Connor has something new and rather pioneering up his sleeve (a Japanese infusion you may not expect).
On day three, after dreamily lingering around the property, my Uber arrives to usher me to the airport. It’s a reluctant departure after a few dreamy days at the Vineyard. I leave behind the trademark mountain views, but also unbeatable Cape Town hospitality, served up by a family of staff who know how to spoil: Nicole, who served each cup of coffee with her trademark smile; Marlin, who coaxed me to play piano mid-dinner; Anathi, who paused portering to trail us in the garden and take some pictures; and Jerome, who teasingly reminded me at departure: “Don’t worry, you know where to find us.”
The Take-a-Breather special offers locals weekend escapes at 15 per cent off. Rates start from R6 660 per couple per weekend, including breakfast, until 31 August. Explore more at vineyard.co.za.