It’s a glorious day in London — one of the first of spring — and the blue sky creates a mesmerising light show as it reflects off the towering Canary Wharf buildings and the waterways below. It’s doubly glorious as this slightly homesick South African is about to get a welcome dose of home.
Waiting in the chic Roe restaurant, I quickly stand up, letting out a restrained ululation as Chef Nokx Majozi strides over. Effusive, feisty, and fun, she offers me an hour of her time to talk about her rise in Britain’s culinary scene.
A daughter of Richards Bay, Nokx grew up with a keen interest in cooking. Her father worked in the harbour and, exposed to foreigners and their cuisine, would return home and try to recreate the dishes. As one of five children, joining him was often the only one-on-one time she had with him.
When it came to post-school studies, she was initially mocked for studying food tech: “Why would you learn how to make pap? You should already know how to do these things.” Thankfully, she persisted. Her talent led to a placement at a Durban hotel and later a position at Disney World in Florida, USA.
After moving to the UK, her journey continued. While working at the prestigious Rosewood Hotel, a need arose in the pastry kitchen, and she casually stepped in to help. “It was a calming space for me — it became a creative hobby, the pastry work.”
The results were so celebrated that the Rosewood opened The Pie Room for the stream of visitors seeking Nokx’s creations. Today, her magic continues through a chef residency at London’s acclaimed Fallow Restaurant (with occasional appearances at its sister restaurant, Roe). Pies aside, Nokx reminds me they are just one of her many kitchen fortes, inviting me to Fallow to taste more.
I’m inspired but also hungry. The pies soon arrive. After proudly snapping a picture of her creations, Nokx heads off to the kitchen, leaving me with the steaming pastry. Dissecting the layers with my knife, the cheese oozes out over the exposed patty, followed by slivers of cabbage. One forkful in, and nostalgia floods the senses.
For all the articles written in search of the best pie, I can confidently say this: the best South African pie is, surprisingly, found on British shores, thanks to Chef Nokx.
Quickfire Q&A With Chef Nokx Majozi
YLA: Your favourite London café?
Nokx: Catalyst in Holborn, and Saint Nine Coffee.
YLA: Your top London fine-dining recommendations?
Nokx: Kol, Manteca, Hide, Scully, Dorian, Kudu, Darjeeling Express, Cavita, and Chishuru at 45 Park Lane.
YLA: Casual eatery recommendation?
Nokx: Kiln, Roti King, Berenjak, Chick ‘n’ Sours, and Hoppers.
YLA: Recommended day trip outside of London?
Nokx: Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight — there’s so much history, and a range of museums.
YLA: When you go back to SA, what do you enjoy most?
Nokx: In KZN: braais with friends at Laguna Beach, safaris at Hluhluwe, and enjoying street food. In Cape Town: visiting vineyards on the Franschhoek Tram, and a sunset picnic on Lion’s Head. In Joburg: visiting Waterfall restaurants, stadium soccer matches, and eating ikota in Soweto.
YLA: Where do you go for a pie back in SA?
Nokx: The good old Woolworths pie!
YLA: Any advice for emerging South African chefs?
Nokx: Believe in yourself, follow your dream, and gain as much experience as you can while in South Africa; that will help prepare you for the world.
Dine under Nokx at Fallow Restaurant, and follow her journey on Instagram: @nokxmajozi.
