* This article first appeared here in the Citizen
Few villages in South Africa offer what Franschhoek does: award-winning gastronomy, premium wines, a plethora of enticing accommodation options – all framed by towering Cape Fold mountains. Just a few of the reasons why, when asked as a travel journalist what my favourite village in South Africa is, Franschhoek automatically flies off my tongue. On a recent visit, I sipped, tasted, and walked my way through several new experiences.
Epicurean heaven at Epice
Only months ago, Epice was named Africa’s Best Restaurant in the prestigious World Culinary Awards, so it had to feature on our Franschhoek escape. Arriving in the wood-panelled restaurant, the day’s theme is set as a staff member wheels over a spice trolley to meet the day’s stars: Epice is French for ‘spice,’ and each course is dedicated to a particular spice. Next, the drinks trolley arrives for an aperitif – bubbles, local beers, or tableside-crafted cocktails with thrilling theatrics. What follows is a three-hour 11-course spice journey that’s informative, entertaining, and, most importantly, incredibly delicious. Two tiers of wine pairings are offered, or a wine list to choose from.
At the helm of Epice is Chef Charné Sampson – she’s both a force to behold in the kitchen and supremely humble. This spills over into the rest of the staff – I sensed that the pretence around fine dining was dropped, but not the quality. lacolombe.restaurant/epice
East meets West at Ōku’s
Set in a glass room on Franschhoek’s main street awaits an Asian experience unlike anything else in the country. Ōku presents a mouth-watering Kaiseki – a fusion 11-course, bite-sized Japanese-inspired tasting menu. With the minimal yet effective Eastern-style decor, I felt at home surrounded by the sculptured miniature trees, as my parents were bonsai farmers for most of their lives.
While I enjoy the usual global gastronomy associated with fine dining, it was a refreshing change to have an experience dedicated purely to Asian cuisine – every course felt like a surprise. Meal highlights were the coriander crusted springbok with miso purée, bok choi and black garlic jus, and then ume plum pickled beetroot with yuzu ginger crème, kimchi and sesame. Alongside the wines in the dedicated drinks pairing, special tipples including imported beer and Sake were included. eat-oku.co.za
Head to the Hills at Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve
After all of the calorie intake, a good leg stretch might be what the dietitian ordered. Driving up Franschhoek Pass is not only a scenic excursion, but the drive to the top is rewarded with the entrance to Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve. The 13km Perdekop trail offers scenic vistas throughout, especially from the elevation of the halfway stop. Towards the end, the pools at a river crossing offer a welcome reprieve from the heat.
If you’d like to skip the longer trail, you can still visit the river on a short stroll from the parking lot. The reserve is open from sunrise to sunset all year round, including public holidays, and the day permits (purchasable at the gate) cost R70 per person, with children under 12 free. montrochellehiking.co.za
Remote escape at Peak Cottage
For my this visit, I scoured the sleep options to find something special to return to after exploring. As much as I’ve enjoyed the luxury hotels in the village, sometimes it’s the luxury of solace you’re after, which is why I had to click Book when I discovered the remote Peak Cottage. Driving out of the Franschhoek, the road narrows as it passes through vineyards and farmlands right up to the head of the valley, where Peak Cottage is perched on the slopes of the mountain.
Sequestered away from all the activity below, Peak Cottage features two air-conditioned bedrooms, an open-plan kitchen and lounge, outdoor dining by the braai, a garden for picnics, and a splash pool to cool down in, all while having the towering mountains at your back door.
The fact that my suitcase with clothing remained behind in Cape Town and wasn’t a problem speaks to the absolute privacy offered by the cottage. This winelands escape is available at around R4500 a night for four. Just don’t over plan your schedule for the weekend; you’ll want enough time to soak up the gloriously wild solitude that Peak Cottage provides. stonehedge-cottages.co.za
