* This article first appeared here in YourLuxury Africa
Truth be told, we quite literally stumbled into Saudade. After four days of barely leaving the sanctuary of our pre-booked villa, we embarked on an exceptionally long beach walk. At some point, we climbed a path from the beach, expecting to find another whitewashed hotel where we’d order a taxi home. Instead, it was a ‘pinch me, is this real?’ moment as the astoundingly beautiful Saudade stood before us.
Saudade is the love child of South African couple Sarah and Michael, who have poured every ounce of time, passion, and skill into the project. What was once a well-kept family getaway is now open to discerning travellers seeking to escape a chain hotel experience. Michael narrates the story: “When we took over what was then a well-loved family beach cottage, it hadn’t been touched in fifteen years and was in urgent need of care. Sarah and I could see the potential to create something special.”
Six bespoke rooms adorn the spacious property, with the neighbouring Villa Coco offering four rooms for exclusive rentals. The lawns cascade down towards the beach, featuring an infinity pool, beach salas, and decks for sun-soaking. A generous piece of paradise for just a handful of rooms. Needless to say, we soon changed our accommodation for the last two nights, making Saudade our final beach home.
Best of Biophilic
On the second day of our new stay, Sarah materialises, fresh off a quick flight from Joburg, radiant in green. I eagerly catch her for a chat about Saudade. “The inspiration was high-end luxury built using the locally available materials, created by the people who live in Vilanculos. The challenges were finding the right artisans – it is a long process, as everything is made by hand, so very time-consuming. It is the imperfections in a product that make it feel personal and special in a world where everything is mass-produced.”
The design ethos is a creative expression of ‘wabi sabi’ — earth-inspired interiors. A minimalist design that doesn’t distract but invites contemplation, and most importantly, tranquillity. No colour appears in the space that wouldn’t be seen stepping outside. Naturally clad walls transform into verandas and windows that frame ocean landscapes, with lush foliage and private courtyards bordering the bedrooms around the property.
Understandably brimming with pride, she tells me: “Our reward has been firstly witnessing the sheer pride and dedication that the artisans show for their work, and then ultimately the guests’ appreciation for what we have created.”
Sarah’s playful panache is visible throughout, from the custom-designed fabrics that adorn the beds to the tantalising textures. Perhaps Saudade’s most iconic feature is the spirals of chopped reeds covering the building pillars. “Originally, they looked too blocky,” Sarah tells me. “Working with local thatchers, we experimented with materials.” The result is mesmerising designs, perfectly complemented by the plaited overhanging thatched roofs and oversized hanging basket-lights that sway gently in the breeze.
Creative spills over into dining, where a variety of dishes (meals and crockery) are served up by Chef Pape. “You eat with your eyes before anything else. I don’t want just a plain plate. It’s boring,” says Sarah. Added to the variety of dining spots, every meal feels unique – and all the while enjoying one fine bucket-list view.
50 Shades of Blue
If blue was invented in the sky, it is perfected here in Vilanculos, where the seascape reflects back fifty shades of blue. Thanks to a shallow bay, a significant change between tides creates a natural spectacle I’ve not witnessed elsewhere: every six hours, an azure ocean transforms into a fluvial fantasy. Countless blue channels flanked by emerging sandbars, only to disappear again, creating an ever-changing living canvas.
Following the rhythm of the tides, local fishermen sail back and forth into the deep waters in search of food. As they return, women waiting nearby approach the boats, ready to fill their buckets. We also see folk wading through the waters with hand nets or lines of large nets. In the distance, the silhouettes of the six Bazaruto Archipelago islands form a dreamy backdrop.
The town is hardly sleepy, with 23,000 people calling it home. But in classic Mozambican style, it possesses a distinctive go-slow vibe. It is, however, the unique ocean and postcard archipelago that draws people from around the world. With a ninety-minute flight from Johannesburg via Airlink, it’s an easy escape.
Island hopping
We leave the lodge, only tempted by a boat trip to the nearby islands. My only memory of Bazaruto is visiting as a child, when cruise ships disgorged throngs of passengers onto land. Fortunately, those crowds have ceased, and now only a limited number of small boats visit from Vilanculos.
First, we climb the dunes of Bazaruto, where the view from the top back to the mainland reveals narrow channels of blue ocean. Later, snorkelling at Two Mile Reef, countless colourful fish pass through my masked view. After a freshly grilled seafood lunch on the beach, we head to Benguerra Island, where the low tide leaves behind inland lakes to wade and swim through.
Finally, we lie on an isolated stretch of sand, hands intertwined, with the rustling palms and lapping waves providing the soundtrack. It’s a halcyon experience; that’s what Mozambique does — it takes you out of time. It doesn’t merely slow down but softens, carrying a sacredness.
It’s time to leave and the boat carries us back across the waters. We’re in search of the elusive dugong – the last colony of these quasi-dolphin creatures on earth. There’s a frenzy of excitement at the front of the boat, as something is spotted in the water ahead. We cruise closer and wait in silence, for ten heavy minutes. There is no sighting, no dugong. Straddling the side of the boat, one hand clinging to the mast and the other holding my 2M beer, I feel frustrated but secretly pleased: it’s simply another reason to return to this watery wilderness. saudademozambique.com
