* This article first appreared here in Absolute Travel
As we began our descent and stared out of the window, I wondered which of the sleek islands below would be our destination. The various island shapes stretched out over the ocean like amoebas, with the sandy beaches and white wakes of powerboats clearly visible.
While I’ve ambled through my fair share of ancient European capitals and villages, it was time for something different. With two friends visiting the island of Skiathos, I was off to join them for my first Greek escape. While I was after dreamy beaches and blue-and-white-washed cottages, it wasn’t the crowds I was keen on, making the smaller Skiathos that much more tempting.
A Class in Culture
Starting with a cultural fix, I’d immerse myself a little in the country’s religious history. The Greek Orthodox Church is one of the world’s oldest denominations; two millennia later, very little has changed, and on Skiathos, you’ll see indications of this across the island (90% of Greeks identify with the religion). A drive up to the hilltop Evangelistria Monastery provides insight into this tradition, plus there’s a museum and café on site. The monks also ferment various liqueurs there, available at a reasonable price from the shop – the geranium is perhaps the most unique (and tasty) I’ve tried.
Icons play a vital role in the Orthodox Church, so what better way to take back an authentic piece of Greek culture than an iconography class to make our own icon? Our effusive teacher, Despina Mitselou, an exceptionally talented local, led us through the process of choosing an icon, then tracing, painting, shading, gilding, and varnishing. Not being a natural artist, at one point I asked Despina, “Can’t we break the rules a little?” She responded with a firm “No! That’s not the Byzantine way.” Two days later, with obedience from my side, what stood before me was a beautiful icon of Christ that I’d proudly produced.
Food and Wine
For vinophiles, Parassis is the only estate on the island, and the adventurous drive up is worth it not only for the wine but also for the incomparable Aegean views while sipping. Many of the varieties were new to us, adding to the excitement. Favorites included the citrus-driven Epi Topou, the aromatic Antithessi, and the pomegranate and strawberry noted Rosé Parissi.
Turning to dining, Bourtzi Skiathos is a must-visit – it’s touristy but worth it since the restaurant sits atop a little rock peninsula connected to the port by a concrete bridge. The restaurant offers 360-degree views, along with excellent tapas. Take along your swimsuit – from the deck, there are stairs down to a prime swimming spot to be enjoyed during or after your meal (just watch out for the sea urchins). Bakaliko is an unassuming local option by the ocean – what’s more, they’re open year-round, so it’s a bonus for out-of-season visitors.
Exploring on foot
When you’re ready to take a break from sun-soaking, there are hundreds of kilometres of trails to explore. Find the plethora of trails on skiathos.gr or the Skiathos Trails App. For a shorter option, the ST8A trail is an easy walk to the churches of Agios Alexandros and Agios Sostis – the latter boasting both classic Cycladic-style architecture and spellbinding views down to Alexandrios Beach far below.
Island Hopping
Tsougrias is the closest island at a mere 400m wide and 1km long, giving all the Robinson Crusoe vibes. In season, there’s a beach club, and the 20-minute boat trips depart frequently from the port. For a longer trip, sign up for one of the day excursions to nearby Skopelos. Enjoy cruising over the waters at gentle speeds; reclining on the deck with wine in hand is thrilling, and the swimming stops offer the chance to swim and snorkel in the crystal-clear waters.
Postcard Beaches
With 64 beaches, visitors are spoiled for choice. To get around, you need to hire a car, quad, or bike. The best part of the ride is navigating the roads that crisscross the hilly island or hug its shoreline in parts. Some of the more remote beaches require a steep walk down but are often quieter.
Koukounaries Beach is perhaps the island’s most popular, laden with beach clubs and sunset views. Diamanti Beach is an intimate beach with an Instagram-worthy tavern and comfy loungers worth renting for the day. My favourite? The dramatic drive to the northeast of the island, taking in stunning scenery, where pine-laden hills rise towards the ocean and then tumble into the azure waters below, revealing the picturesque Mikros Aselinos Beach, perhaps the most beautiful I’ve seen in Europe.
Where to Stay
- Run by South Africans Elize and Gideon, Villa Nikh lovingly offers up to 6 guests a chance to experience laid-back barefoot hospitality in their three self-catering rooms. Their deck provides a vista of no less than five islands – from here, both sunrise and sunset are ethereal light shows. instagram.com/villanikh.skiathos
2. Elivi offers a slice of generous luxury at its five-star, oceanside location, with various accommodation options spread over the private peninsula. Also a popular choice for destination weddings – with the island favoured by South Africans, I’m told the venue has seen a fair share of island celebrations. elivihotels.com
