* This article first appeared here in ASPIRE LIFESTYLE
Alighting from the plane at Da Nang, it’s only seconds before an all-embracing humidity cocoons you, a tangible reminder that you have arrived in a tropical destination. Vietnam is perhaps the most fascinating Southeast Asian country I’ve ever visited, and despite being a communist system, she is surprisingly openhearted and welcoming.
Scooters excitedly dart the streets at all hours (there are 70 million of them in a country of 100 million people), and on every corner, locals gathered over bowls of Pho – the classic Vietnamese soup-like dish of meat and vegetables in a steaming, rich broth.
In truth, this trip was to be a break from my normally fully-scheduled travel – we’re all familiar with the ever-familiar fomo when visiting a foreign land. This time, rather than a packed itinerary, my partner and I would be based at one utopian location for nine days, and take occasional excursions at our own leisure.
Lăng Cô
Just under an hour from Da Nang, Central Vietnam’s largest city Banyan Tree Lăng Cô would be our home. Flanked by the tropical Truong Son Mountain Range on one side, and the East Sea on the other – it is a sure sliver of paradise.
The splendor of this place was penned a century ago by Emperor Khai Dinh: “When I look at the mountains, I can see clusters of miraculous clouds flying from caves as fairies dancing on mountains, when I look down at the water, I can see waves, pushed by winds, running as if numerous horses gathering at sea.” Thanks to the birth of the Banyan Tree, this previously inaccessible bay is now a prized remote retreat.
As I came to experience in Vietnam, one of the hallmarks of Banyan Tree Hotels is the locally-infused focus; a helpful process of bringing the local culture to its guests. While all the usual tenants of a luxury hotel were present, they were cleverly blended with local components, but much more than aesthetics and culturally clever designs, this is something deeper – a celebration of culture through subtle storytelling.
The hotel offers lagoon-facing villas, sea-view villas perched on the limestone hill, or our choice – the beachfront villas. Every villa is equipped with a private pool. With the warm ocean mere steps away, we spent most of our first days drifting between the ocean and the pool. There’s also a jacuzzi, outdoor shower, sala and a lush landscaped garden. All are exceptionally romantic, with uncompromised privacy.
When you are tempted to leave the sanctuary of your villa, a host of activities are on offer: from food and beverage classes (mixology, Vietnamese coffee), craft lessons (hand embroidery, basic survival skills, calligraphy art), active sessions (tai chi, photography tour, jogging, cycling, yoga, aquatic exercise), archery, croquet and even bird watching – a first for a hotel in Vietnam. Enjoy every kind of water sport you can imagine – including complimentary kayaking, stand-up paddle board, banana boat and Vietnam basket boat.
Then of course, what so many visitors enjoy most about Vietnam – the exquisite local cuisine. The Water Court is where an abundant breakfast buffet is served and, in the evenings, an a la carte menu of Vietnamese delights. For a dining experience par excellence, Saffron is Banyan Tree’s hero restaurant. Perched high overlooking the bay, Saffron is one of the few Thai SELECT Signature restaurants in Vietnam (a prized Royal Thai Government certification that guarantees the authenticity of Thai restaurants).
There are also two restaurants and a pool bar at the adjacent Angsana resort (Banyan Tree guests have full access to their facilities, including the spa, 300-meter pool and water sports centre). Then of course, for a romantic night in, the in-room dining is a spoil of note. banyantree.com
Hue City
Despite being beautifully tucked away, Banyan Tree Lăng Cô is only a short drive from the central Vietnamese world-renowned ancient wonders – the closest being the historical city of Hue. From 1802 to 1945 the royal dynasties lived here with Hue being the national capital.
The complex of Hue monuments was Vietnam’s first site to be inscribed as a UNESCO sight. The Đại Nội Citadel is perhaps the most prominent, where a moat and thick stone walls protect the Imperial City. Within the walls, palaces and shrines abound, including the Forbidden Purple City, and a recently restored replica of the Royal Theatre. It was here that the last king of Vietnam, under pressure from French control, abdicated with the famous words “I’d rather be a citizen of a free country than be a ruler of an enslaved nation.”
Vietnam is a country that wears its history in its temples, and tombs, and in Hue you’ll find 7 royal tombs and mausoleums, mostly clustered along the banks of the Perfume River. We visited Emperors Tu Duc and Khai Dinh’s tombs, with their impressive porcelain, glass, and ceramics imported from China and Japan. Walking through them 93 years later, is a surreal experience that commands awe.
Before returning to the lodge, a lavish lunch at the beautiful French-inspired Les Jardins de La Carambole was in order. All of this was arranged by the Banyan Tree, where we were ushered around in style by our informative guide Hung.
Hoi An
Our last excursion from the hotel was to the famed Hoi An. This perfectly preserved 17th-century town invites visitors for an authentic and utterly enchanting experience of an ancient Southeast Asian trading port. Reflecting the country’s complex history, the architecture is principally Chinese and Japanese with some European flourishes. All this is now encompassed in a Vietnamese UNESCO sight.
Several streets wind their way to the river, lined with tiled houses with traditional motifs carved into their wooden parts. It’s mesmerising and sometimes overwhelming, as you’re transported into a new world. After wandering the streets, likely having been measured up and caffeinated (the old town is famous for its tailors and coffee roasters), find a riverside restaurant and watch the evening spectacle unfold: hundreds of boats carrying colourful lanterns float along the river, providing a kaleidoscope of colours that reflected along the rippling waters.
