* This article first appeared in ASPIRE LIFESTYLE
The further North you go from Durban on South Africa’s East coast, the closer you get to experiencing miracles. The region’s iSimangaliso Wetland Park is isiZulu for “land of miracles.” After uShaka’s death, his aide uJeqe, fled southward to avoid the customary burial with his master. He absconded to this part of the world (today a UNESCO site), and after witnessing the natural splendour, eventually returned to declare “I saw wonders and miracles”. Today, visitors flock here to experience the natural wonders and hospitalities of the region. A short drive towards the mountains brings you to one such a miracle – &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve.
&Beyond Phinda Forest Lodge
I recall seeing the pictures of Phinda’s iconic innovative Forest Lodge almost 20 years ago. At a time when “safari” equalled thatched lodges and rustic lapas, the glass boxes in the forest were undeniably striking. Among the first eco-lodges in the region, Phinda was ground-breaking at the time, and learning about the recent refurbishment of the lodge, I knew a visit had to be arranged.
Thanks to designers Fox Browne Creative and architect Jack Alexander, the lodge has an exciting new lease on life: a beautiful reimagining within the context of the contemporary luxury safari, while keeping references to ‘Zulu-zen’ décor and a minimalist interior design.
The major additions include the lodge’s first family suite, a library and lounge, and a walkway with a central fire pit linking the main commons to the library. A newly reshaped pool and terrace, as well as significant changes to the main dining and bar areas, were also undertaken. The hero feature, however, remains the glass sanctuaries spread throughout the forest. Offering 360-degree forest views, from the bedroom, dressing room and bathtub, each space itself becomes a window into the wilderness. Nature is the interior architect, but subtle hints of local culture and Japanese minimalism blend to set the scene organically.
Forest Lodge’s significance lies not only in innovative design but also in its location. The sand forest it calls home grows on the ancient remains of a petrified coastline – an estimated 6000ha of Sand Forest growth survives in the world today, of which Phinda is the custodian of 1000ha. The forest is home to rare mammals such as the red duiker, suni and Tonga red squirrel, with several bird and plant species found only in this habitat.
Some of the most remarkable inhabitants of the forest are the giant trees, most notably the Lebombo Wattle, Torchwood, and False Tamboti – some over 1500 years old. On our morning coffee stop, we could wander among their giant limbs (and even climb a few) and I couldn’t help but wonder if only these trees could talk, what stories they’d have to tell.
&Beyond Phinda Vlei Lodge
Being torn between choosing a visit to either Forest or Vlei Lodges, I came up with a simple solution: spend a night at each. After a hearty breakfast, it was a ten-minute drive until the team at Vlei welcomed us. With only 6 rooms, this is a truly intimate wilderness retreat.
The rooms are luxurious bush hide-aways cleverly blending modern style elements with touches that harken back to an era of early safari. Plantation shutters and left? wallpapers accompany the bedroom with vintage bed posts and laced nets, and the bathrooms feature dark wood detailing with freestanding brass tubs. The hero feature is the private overflow pools that adorn each room. Along with the loungers, they gaze over the vlei where wildlife roam freely, including the elephants that often pass by and dip their trunks in the pool for a free drink.
As for the game? Phinda is teaming with wildlife and the powerful combination of tracker and guide on each drive, guarantees your best chance to be introduced to the reserve’s fauna. On our last morning, at 05h00 the phone rang with the morning wake-up call. Our guide Thulani announced that it was raining, but that he would still be heading out on a game drive and that we should join in.
A little hesitantly, we bumbled into the game vehicle in our anoraks, but that quickly changed – within an hour we had already seen leopard and cheetah. Thinking we’d had our luck, around a corner we came across the smallest giraffe I’d ever seen. Thulani brought the vehicle to a quick halt; “Buga ‘look’ she is only days old. The umbilical cord is still attached. We are probably the first humans she is seeing.”
Staring at the wet, fluffy, and curiously cute face, I boldly asked if I could name her. Thulani asked what my suggestion was.
“Nomvula”, I quickly offered.
“An excellent name”, chuckled Thulani, impressed at my Zulu since the name meant ‘after the rain’.
This parting gift, or ‘little miracle’ – recalling Ujeqe’s laments on the area – will forever remain a treasured memory from our visit to this special sliver of South African wilderness. Along with the reminder that another two Phinda lodges are waiting to explore, both perched on the rocky mountains to the North. andBeyond.com
MORE BUSH FOR YOUR BUCK
A little reminder that a visit to Phinda might be a little lighter on the pocket than you imagine and there are two other Phinda lodges waiting to be explored – both perched on the rocky mountains to the North. The Bateleur club offers South Africans the chance to visit for less. The club has an R45k joining fee, which then serves as credit for future trips. I had a flick through and last-minute Bateleur rates started as low as R4,240 bateleurclub.com
